SWAGE AND SHAPER TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

1. It you have too much bite, reset the back stop.
2. If you are ending up with too little stock (your swage is squeezing the metal too thin at the end of the die stroke), reset front stop to engage 1/16" before die strikes the anvil.
3. Is your bite too "aggressive"? Maybe you need a different type of die. See Die Selection Chart.
4. Could your die be too small for the job?
5. Reconsider your kerf. Is it excessive for the saw steel and/or the tool?

NOTE: Normally, a saw should not be swaged more than 7 gauges over the saw plate thickness before shaping. Nor should the width be increased more than 5 gauges with one pull of the die lever.

6. Badly worn eccentric dies cut into the face of the tooth. This can cause you to lose one side of the swaged tooth while sawing. Replace worn dies!

1. Replace if worn OR cracked.
2. Make sure it is flat on the back of the tooth.

1. Sufficiently lubricate the tooth face.
2. Do not swage too quickly. Excessive speed develops heat.
3. Check to see if the tips were burned during grinding.
4. Make sure you aren't "nicking" the swaged point with the clamp screws when advancing the swage.
5. Watch for clamp screw marks moving up toward the swaged tooth. These can split the side of the swage.
6. Check the shaper jaws and tooth stop for wear.
7. Use the recommended air pressure for air swages - 65-80 lbs.